Well, I've finally accumulated enough track and Split Jaw clamps to complete an oval of about 150 feet. I will post a photo this weekend of my progress, but to date, I have completed my train storage/power supply shed, planted some shrubs around the perimeter of the layout and hauled in two pickup loads of bark mulch for that perimeter. The interior of the garden area where the layout will be built is still 95% bare ground, but because I am anxious to get a train running, I am placing the track on short pieces of 2 X 4 laid out flat on the ground and spaced about every 24 to 30 inches under the track with one piece under each track splice/clamp (and then another half way between).
My question/concern is under the sun and in the heat, will this be enough support for the track on a temporary basis or will the track begin to deform or sag under the weight of itself. I have it leveled up as best I can with a bubble level and shimmed under the 2 X 4's with cedar shingles or thinner boards in the lower areas to keep it as level as possible.
I have run my GP-38 along 74 feet of completed track and plan to have the rest of the oval done by Friday evening.
My plans are to leave the track in place through the winter, purchase the remaining track that I need for my planned folded dog bone layout of about 320 feet or so and begin work laying the rest of the track, building a pond and waterfall where it fits in in the Spring and continue the planting and landscaping process.
Is this a good plan for development of the layout, or should I change what I am doing?
I appreciate any of your thoughts out there! Thanks.
Paul Smith
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4 comments:
Hi Paul, Congratulations for starting! As Doug Johnson likes to say "Just do it!" I do not think running trains over un-supported section of track will work very well. I think I would lay down some garden weed control fabric and make a roadbed of 3/4 inch crushed gravel and put my track on that. If you have a lot of loam to bring into the center of you layout, I would try to get it dropped off first so that it will be there before you surround it with track. But, I know you are a clever guy and will do a good job on whatever you do. Post a picture when you can. Happy Railroading!
I gather the key is that the 2x4 system will only last until you can put in ballast, such as John describes. I don't think it will hurt the tracks any to set things up temporarily on 2x4's while you establish general curves and grades, or to leave it that way over the winter. Fun to actually get started, isn't it?
Hi Scott,
Yes, I am currently just laying out some track to get a train running this summer. This winter I plan to purchase the remainder of the track and turnouts so that I can lay them out flat on the ground and then elevate them to the finished grade with some stakes and fill in with the fabric and stone dust. I have some large rocks (10 to 18") which I will use along the side of the stone dust to create "cliffs" and to help hold the stone dust in place. I think I may put plain boards under the track for additional support for the winter just to be safe.
I just e-mailed John to find out how he would recommend laying out the radius'. I am using 20 diameter curves. I noticed on my oval that the two ends are different distances apart (from side to side) due to the flexibility of the joints, even though they are clamped tightly. What are your recommendations?
Thanks.
I lay my track directly on crushed stone graded to be the track grade. advantages include; easy to change - or fix, fairly cheap to build...probably cheaper than 2x4s if you have to buy them, stays put and does not rot.
natural "bank run" fill found round the yard will work too if supported so it will not wash away.
I have previously used wood to build the road bed. I used pressure treated and supported that in the soil. It did work pretty well but tended to move around and drag the track with it in ways that were sometimes hard to fix.
--eric
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